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Discovering Bunaken - So much more than just diving!
- Rachel
- Feb 22
- 7 min read
Updated: Feb 24
When we told friends we were heading to Bunaken Island in North Sulawesi, reactions were a mix of "Sorry, where?" and "Oh wow, the diving!"
They weren’t wrong - while it took a bit of travel to get there, the diving and snorkelling was INCREDIBLE. Believe it or not though, the under water world was not quite the real highlight of Bunaken Island.
What surprised us - two midlife travellers who appreciate a good night’s sleep almost as much as a good reef - was how much we fell in love with the island life above the water, too.
Bunaken gave us world-class marine encounters by day, village warmth by night, and some of the most joyful community celebrations we’ve ever stumbled into.
Beneath the Surface: Why Divers Dream of Bunaken
Bunaken sits within the protected waters of Bunaken National Marine Park, part of the Coral Triangle and widely regarded as one of the richest marine ecosystems on Earth. It's been a protected marine park since the 90s so you can imagine how prolific the sea life here is.
Although the island sits inside the marine park, many local families followed unwritten rules about sustainable fishing long before conservation laws were introduced. Here, there is a cultural respect for the sea as a life source, and knowledge is passed down from one generation to the next about seasonal patterns, reef care, and where not to fish.
Being a couple made up of one diver and one snorkeller we can confidently say this island caters to both - we were blown away. Vertical wall dives that drop dramatically into the blue, coral gardens in impossibly good condition, warm water, great visibility and of course, turtles. Who doesn't love turtles, right?
The Sites
Sadly, we couldn't explore them all. One day we'll definitely be back to check a few more out.
Lekuan I, II – These iconic wall dives are what Bunaken is famous for. We drifted past sponges, hunted for nudibranch's, and spotted huge turtles.
Siladen – A brilliant snorkel spot with healthy hard corals and abundant reef fish, an amazing wall for the divers.
Bunaken Timur I & II - on the East side of Bunaken, offers great diving on the 40m wall while snorkellers can enjoy the breathtaking reef top which is widely regarded as the best snorkelling on the island.
Muka Kampung - turtles, turtles and more turtles!
If you’re snorkelling rather than diving, you absolutely will not miss out. Many reefs are accessible by short boat ride—or even directly off the beach in some places. Everywhere that Danny dived, I was able to comfortably snorkel close by. It really did live up to both of our expectations.
Island Life: Slow, Friendly, and Surprisingly Social
We stayed near the main village on Bunaken, and that’s where the island truly won us over.
The village is simple but lively: small shops, kids playing football, fishing boats pulled up on the sand, and a huge church at the centre of community life. Tourism is important here, but it hasn’t overwhelmed the island's way of life.
We noticed here that the tradition of Gotong Royong - collective community work, is still practised. Villagers work together to clean shared spaces, repair boats, maintain paths or prepare for events. Rather than a formal arrangement, community participation is an expected social custom and a sign of respect in the community.
Locals greeted us constantly. We were invited into conversations, offered coffee and captikus, and asked where we were from more times than we could count. There’s a warmth here that doesn’t feel transactional - it's truly genuine. We appreciated that Bunaken isn’t a party island in the typical sense. Most evenings are peaceful: sunset, dinner, early night. Perfect after a day of diving and snorkelling.
But then came New Year.
New Year’s Eve: Fireworks, Motorbikes & Pure Joy
If you happen to be on Bunaken Island for New Year’s Eve, prepare for a transformation.
The normally quiet village streets filled with fireworks exploding over the sea, music blasting from massive speakers, a village full of families and friends celebrating together, and when the fireworks run out? The whole island simultaneously revving their bikes and cutting hot laps through the village!
It felt chaotic, loud, and utterly joyful.
There wasn’t a sense of “tourists over here, locals over there.” We watched in amazement from the balcony of our accommodation, bleary eyed and tired from travel. Knowing what we know now, we should have wandered into the village and I know we would have been waved into gatherings, handed drinks, and encouraged to join the dancing. Midnight arrived in a haze of fireworks, laughter and a chorus of revs.
But then we were told: “This is nothing, just wait for January 2nd!”
January 2nd: The Legendary Women’s Party Day
Locals described January 2nd to us as “women’s party day.” What we experienced was something between a village-wide progressive house party and a joyful community reunion.
From what we learned, it’s part of the extended New Year celebrations common in Christian communities in North Sulawesi. The festive period stretches beyond December 31st right throughout the month of January. On Bunaken, January 2nd becomes a day when women—often the backbone of family and church life—take centre stage socially. Locals come back to the island from all over the globe, just to be there for the celebrations on this day. We were warned, "You will see many drunk women on the streets. Today is for the women." Sounded pretty good to me! So as the heat of the day began to fade and locals emerged into the streets, we headed out with a Bintang and our gopro to find out what it was all about.
Here’s what happens:
People form large friendship and extended family groups
Each group wears matching T-shirts
They move from house to house around the village, staying for a song or two
Every home provides food and drinks
Music blasts from enormous speakers
Dancing is mandatory and spills into the street
Lucky for us, the beautiful Novi - who also cooked our delicious meals at MC Bunaken - took us under her wing and ushered us into her group - Bakar Manyala or Burning Flame in English - and we spent the rest of the night with them. We danced and drank our way around many houses throughout the village over the next few hours, stumbling by phone light through backyards and even the local cemetery at one point. When we reached Novi's house, we were invited into the kitchen to enjoy a meal of coconutty curried fish, rice and vegetables that her mother in law had prepared for guests. Hands down, one of the best meals I've ever eaten in Indonesia. Ever.
At one point in all the shenanigans, we came to a large vacant block and were dragged into a group doing something kind of like a hokey pokey - a huge circle of laughing people holding hands, charging in to the centre of the circle and cheering "Whoooooo"on every pass. Something like this video, but on a much larger scale.
Yes, there were tipsy women laughing loudly in the streets (I was quickly one of them). Yes, it was brilliant. We shook hands, we danced, we drank, we were kissed by random strangers, and we learnt to say Selamat Tahun Baru - Happy New Year!
Every single house welcomed us in. Plates of food were pressed into our hands. Questionable concoctions in plastic jugs were poured for us - one consisting of Guinness, Bintang, Captikus and Saguer (palm wine). We were pulled into group photos. We danced badly. No one cared.
It felt less like tourism and more like being temporarily adopted.
We’ve done our share of festivals—but this was deeply communal rather than commercial. This wasn’t organised for visitors. We just happened to be there.
And that's what made it special.
Where to Stay
Accommodation on Bunaken ranges from simple homestays to comfortable dive resorts.
We chose a mid-range dive stay in MC Bunaken near the village and despite a bumpy start with our booked room being occupied when we arrived, we found it the perfect balance in the end: air-con, good food, and easy access to both reef and community. The studio with sea view is just stunning!
MC Bunaken also has a very well equipped dive centre and a large, comfortable dive boat. They are a PADI certified dive school and their dive guides are fantastic. I had planned to complete my Open Water Certification whilst on Bunaken, but it turns out scuba diving just isn't for me. My instructor was amazing - he was devastated that he couldn't get me through it. If you are wanting to learn to dive, I would highly recommend Lucky from MC Dive.
Trip Planning Tips (From Two People Who Appreciate Comfort AND Authenticity)
Getting there: Fly into Manado (Sam Ratulangi International Airport) via Singapore, Bali or Jakarta, then it's a 30–60 minute boat transfer.
You can find great deals on flights here:
The public boat leaves at 2pm daily from 📌Pelabuhan Dermaga Wisata Kalimas ke Bunaken Tickets are 50,000 IDR and you pay when you disembark on the island. Just head to the pier and someone will point you in the right direction. If you prefer, private boats are also available to hire, starting from 500,000 IDR - just head to Kalimas and ask around.
Cash: Bring enough Indonesian rupiah—ATMs are limited on the island. If you need to exchange currency in Manado, we recommend 📌ABH Toko for trustworthy service and excellent rates.
Internet: Patchy but workable. Don’t expect high speed. Telkomsel has good coverage here so consider a Nomad esim for awesome service and ease of use.
Health: Sunscreen, reef-safe products, mosquito spray and hydration are essential.
Diving: Book dive packages through your accommodation, equipment hire is very reasonable and dive courses are widely available.
Pace yourself: Three dives / snorkels a day is fantastic… until your body reminds you you’re not 25 anymore and the toe cramps start.
Why Bunaken Hit Different
In our 20s and 30s, we might have chased nightlife and bogan Bali bars.
In our 40s, we appreciate something deeper.
Bunaken gave us:
Extraordinary underwater biodiversity
A taste of authentic village life
Intergenerational celebrations
Space to slow down and connect with others
And on January 2nd, dancing in the street in our sandy thongs (flip-flops if you're not Australian - don't get the wrong idea) with locals in matching T-shirts, booming speakers, and the most welcoming hearts, we realised something:
Travel doesn’t get smaller as you get older. It just gets richer. It gets more real. It changes perspectives and invites you to learn. The more curious you are, the more amazing your experiences become.
If you’re considering Bunaken—especially over the New Year period—go. Dive deep. Say yes to invitations. And don’t be surprised if you leave with sand in your shoes and a few new WhatsApp contacts from a village that felt like it became your own, even if only for a night!
Thank you so much for visiting MC Bunaken😍❤️🔥